Monday, 28 January 2013
AlexanderWang AW10
Rodarte.
Although the two Rodarte sisters don't look like the stereotypical wacky designers, their eye for glamorous grunge proves them not to be underestimated. The stunning fabrics they use are a balance between clean cut, shimmery and sophisticated to edgey and textured knitwear, the combination of these, as well as autumnal colours, results in an interesting collection that they deliver each season. Although every collection isn't stereotypical 'grunge' they have definately taken an influence from this subculture as each garment has an element that I would consider glamorous grunge , whether it be the silohette, the colours used, the styling etc.
Mikhael.Kale!
Mikhael KALE
Mikhael Kale combines grunge with sophistication, almost like a tailored grunge style, but the balance between them are just right. His garments are heavily embellished and are full of different texture whether it be hard,smooth leather or ruffled torn fabrics used in the same garment.
A journalist interviewed Mikhael after the showing of his winter collection 2013 to find out his inspirations behind his grunge appeal.
Victoria Simpson: What was the inspiration for your Fall Winter 2013 Collection?
Mikhael Kale: “I was really inspired by street style; then I was inspired by Nan Goldin and the women she photographs. She is an amazing photographer and documented all of New York in the 70′s and 80′s. She’s a recovering heroin addict herself; sort of in-and-out of it. All of her images are really raw; they’re very New York; very street. She always photographs people who are un-done and exposing themselves – they have issues and they’re confronting them. I thought it was a cool way to play with fabric, and watch it unravel.”
Victoria Simpson: “I could see this inspiration in a lot of your knits; and in the final jacket and dress. Fabrics that were unraveled, raw, torn.”
Mikhael Kale combines grunge with sophistication, almost like a tailored grunge style, but the balance between them are just right. His garments are heavily embellished and are full of different texture whether it be hard,smooth leather or ruffled torn fabrics used in the same garment.
A journalist interviewed Mikhael after the showing of his winter collection 2013 to find out his inspirations behind his grunge appeal.
Victoria Simpson: What was the inspiration for your Fall Winter 2013 Collection?
Mikhael Kale: “I was really inspired by street style; then I was inspired by Nan Goldin and the women she photographs. She is an amazing photographer and documented all of New York in the 70′s and 80′s. She’s a recovering heroin addict herself; sort of in-and-out of it. All of her images are really raw; they’re very New York; very street. She always photographs people who are un-done and exposing themselves – they have issues and they’re confronting them. I thought it was a cool way to play with fabric, and watch it unravel.”
Victoria Simpson: “I could see this inspiration in a lot of your knits; and in the final jacket and dress. Fabrics that were unraveled, raw, torn.”
Grunge is a subculture of alternative rock that emerged during the mid-1980s in the American state of Washington, particularly in the Seattle area and is inspired by hardcore punk, heavy metal, and indie rock. Clothing commonly worn by grunge musicians in Washington consisted of thrift store items and the typical outdoor clothing, most notably flannel shirts, as well as a generally unkempt appearance. The style did not evolve out of a conscious attempt to create an appealing fashion;This clothing is cheap,durable and timeless. It also runs against the grain of the whole flashy aesthetic that existed in the 1980s.
Glam Grunge was adopted in the 21st century by the New Romantics, it became an even mixture of leather and shiny shoes contributed by the Rockers and Punks that has developed into a fashion statement. Hair was big, bangles were bountiful and synthesizers rocked the airwaves. The Glam Rockers were all about coloured leggings and leg-warmers, a la Fame, Cyndi Lauper and Paula Abdul, whereas the New Romantics preferred a darker look, complete with black denim, make-up for boys and shiny shoes which is influenced by Prince. Metallers also adopted the Grunge look and developed it into their own form of Glamorous grunge,Metallers are a bit smarter than grunge, and more colorful than Goths. They love to thrash out at rock concerts, only ever wear band t-shirts, have very long hair and wear a chain on their jeans. They started out in the 80s and early 90s thanks to ACDC and Metallica, and you’ll find them at the front of most mosh pits round the world, drinking–and spilling–cheap beer from a plastic cup.The long hair and chains transferred onto the catwalk and apparently taken influence from Kate Moss's younger years.
A recent take on Grunge from Philippa Morgan, a description of Glam Grunge subgenre: 'The grunge, grime and glamour from 90s fashion is back with vengeance, but today's faux-fur coats, battered boots and shredded explicit T-shirts have a more sophisticated edge. Kate Moss for Topshop's new collection champions this style revival: a decade ago the supermodel was the original poster girl for the look, now, ten years later, she's brought back ripped tights and the stayed-out-all-night look. La Moss can't take all the credit for this trend - it's been re-developing in downtown London and in international trashy-chic circles for years. Think dirty denim, Nirvana (the band, not the religious state of enlightenment), hardcore party apparel, groupie furs and dangerously rude T-shirt slogans.'
Glam Grunge was adopted in the 21st century by the New Romantics, it became an even mixture of leather and shiny shoes contributed by the Rockers and Punks that has developed into a fashion statement. Hair was big, bangles were bountiful and synthesizers rocked the airwaves. The Glam Rockers were all about coloured leggings and leg-warmers, a la Fame, Cyndi Lauper and Paula Abdul, whereas the New Romantics preferred a darker look, complete with black denim, make-up for boys and shiny shoes which is influenced by Prince. Metallers also adopted the Grunge look and developed it into their own form of Glamorous grunge,Metallers are a bit smarter than grunge, and more colorful than Goths. They love to thrash out at rock concerts, only ever wear band t-shirts, have very long hair and wear a chain on their jeans. They started out in the 80s and early 90s thanks to ACDC and Metallica, and you’ll find them at the front of most mosh pits round the world, drinking–and spilling–cheap beer from a plastic cup.The long hair and chains transferred onto the catwalk and apparently taken influence from Kate Moss's younger years.
A recent take on Grunge from Philippa Morgan, a description of Glam Grunge subgenre: 'The grunge, grime and glamour from 90s fashion is back with vengeance, but today's faux-fur coats, battered boots and shredded explicit T-shirts have a more sophisticated edge. Kate Moss for Topshop's new collection champions this style revival: a decade ago the supermodel was the original poster girl for the look, now, ten years later, she's brought back ripped tights and the stayed-out-all-night look. La Moss can't take all the credit for this trend - it's been re-developing in downtown London and in international trashy-chic circles for years. Think dirty denim, Nirvana (the band, not the religious state of enlightenment), hardcore party apparel, groupie furs and dangerously rude T-shirt slogans.'
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